How to Increase Water Pressure in Your Home
Raleigh ProConnect- April 10, 2025
Learn how to increase water pressure in your home with this guide, as we’ll walk you through how to test your water pressure, diagnose where the problem is coming from, and tell you which components of your plumbing system you can adjust to get the pressure you’re looking for.
Low water pressure can make everyday tasks, like washing dishes, doing laundry, or filling a bathtub, feel unnecessarily slow. These types of water pressure problems are common and can come from a number of sources, like clogged fixtures, pressure regulator issues, problems with the main line, or even the pipes in your plumbing system.
In some cases, it might be something you can handle yourself in just a few hours. In others, you might need a licensed plumber to take care of it for you.
Either way, the first step is figuring out if there’s something that’s actually causing you to have low water pressure before you start making any changes.
Because believe it or not, sometimes your system is doing exactly what it’s designed to do… It’s just not giving you the experience you want.
So, in this guide, we’re going to walk you through what normal water pressure levels are and, more specifically, what kind of pressure you can expect if your home is supplied by city water or a well system.
You’ll learn how to test your water pressure using a simple gauge, how to find restrictions or problem areas in your system, and how to fix the issues that are holding your pressure back.
Along the way, we’ll also go over how to increase water pressure in your home with a few small adjustments and when it might be worth it to consider upgrading your system.
Let’s get into it.
How to Measure Water Pressure (City Water or Well Systems)
A lot of low water pressure complaints can be cleared up just by understanding what kind of pressure is actually coming into your home.
That’s why the easiest and most important first step is to measure your current water pressure. This gives you a starting point to work off of, and it can tell you whether the issue is coming from the source itself or if it’s something inside your plumbing system.
Let’s look at how to do this whether your home uses a city water supply or a well system:
If You Use City Water: Test the Incoming Pressure From the Source
To test your incoming water pressure with city water, you’ll need to go out and get a water pressure gauge.
You can pick one up at any hardware store for $10 to $15. Just screw it onto an outdoor spigot (choose the closest hose bib to where your water line enters your house), open up the valve all the way, and see what the PSI (pounds per square inch) reading is.
- Most homes using a city supply have between 40 and 60 PSI.
- If you’re seeing anything below 40, that’s on the low side.
- If it shows a reading under 30 PSI, you’re definitely going to feel it, especially in the shower or with any appliances that depend on steady water flow.
Note: If you ever see a reading around 70 to 80 PSI or above, that’s actually too high and can damage fixtures and appliances. Just keep in mind that you can use some of the same adjustment techniques we’ll mention later to lower your water pressure.
For Well Systems: Know What Your Pump and Tank Are Telling You
If your home relies on a well, the pressure you get at your taps is directly tied to how well your pump and pressure tank are working together. When something’s off, you’ll usually start noticing things like uneven pressure, frequent cycling, or a longer delay after using water before the pressure feels normal again.
Start by checking the pressure gauge near your pressure tank. That number tells you what your system is delivering in real time.
However, unlike city water, well systems don’t hold a constant pressure. Instead, they cycle between two points of a pressure range. You should see the gauge rise and fall within that range as water is used and the pump turns on and off.
Nearby, you’ll also see a small gray or light brown plastic box. That’s your pressure switch. This controls when your well pump turns on and off.
The three most common pressure switch ranges you’ll see are rated for:
- 30 to 50 PSI
- 40 to 60 PSI
- 50 to 70 PSI
So, if you have a 30/50 switch, your pump should turn on when the pressure drops below 30 PSI and stop when it reaches 50 PSI again.
If your shower feels strong one moment and weak the next, you might just be catching the system at the low end of that cycle. That’s normal. But if you want stronger, more consistent pressure, adjusting that range might help (we’ll cover how to do that soon).
Once you’ve checked the gauge and made sure the pressure switch is doing its job, there are a few other things worth looking at that could be affecting your water pressure on a well system.
- If you hear any grinding, clicking, or buzzing around your well pump, these are signs your pump is worn out or failing, especially if it’s older or hasn’t been serviced in a while.
- If your pump is short cycling (switching on and off rapidly), that could mean the pressure tank is waterlogged or the internal bladder has failed.
- Check the air charge in your pressure tank. The pressure should be 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure (so if your system kicks on at 40 PSI, you should see 38 PSI in the tank). If it’s much lower or zero, your tank may not be holding its charge, which affects how consistently your system can deliver pressure.
- If it takes a long time for your pressure to recover after using a lot of water, your jet pump may be undersized, or your well yield could be declining. That’s something to monitor, especially in older systems or if your household water demand has increased.
Whether your home uses city water or well water, consider checking your pressure at different times throughout the day. Sometimes drops in water pressure happen during peak hours when everyone’s using their water at the same time.
This will be especially noticeable if your home is at the end of a main water line or far from it. This can also happen if you’re a part of a neighborhood that uses a community well system. This helps explain why your water pressure seems to be inconsistent.
Diagnosing Why Your House Water Pressure is Low
If you’ve checked your incoming pressure and everything looks to be normal, it’s time to start looking at other things in your home that could be causing the low pressure.
Some of these are quick fixes you’ll be able to do yourself, while others might require some help from a licensed plumber. Before making any upgrades or adjustments to your system, go through the steps below.
Check Fixtures for Blockages
If you’re only noticing the low water pressure at a single shower head, faucet, or bathtub, there might be mineral deposits or sediment buildup that’s blocking the water flow at the fixture itself.
- For faucets: You can unscrew the aerator at the end of the spout where the water comes out. Look inside for any sand, grit, or mineral chunks that have accumulated on the mesh screen. If you see buildup here, soak the aerator in vinegar for about an hour, then scrub it with a toothbrush or small wire brush. Rinse it off, screw it back on, and test the water pressure to see if it’s improved.
- For showerheads: You might have some scaling blocking the nozzles. You can clean these the same way you’d clean an aerator by popping off the shower head and soaking it in a cup of vinegar for an hour, then flushing everything out before attaching it again.
- When your hot water pressure is low: If you notice your hot water pressure is weaker than cold, the problem could be coming from your water heater. Over time, sediment can build up inside your water heater (especially in tank-type water heaters) and restrict the water flow coming out of your unit. You can try flushing it out to see if that removes enough sediment to increase the water pressure.
Did You Recently Have any Plumbing Work Done?
If you noticed your water pressure dropped right after you had some plumbing work done, you could have trapped air or debris in the lines.
Air pockets will make your faucets sputter, while debris from pipe cutting, soldering, or fitting replacements can also make its way into lines and restrict the flow.
The best way to clear your water lines is to open up the hot side of the lowest bathtub in your home and let it run for a few minutes. This will help flush any trapped air or debris out of the system.
Note: It’s not recommended to flush out your lines through sink faucets as the debris can clog up the aerator or break it altogether. If the lowest fixture in your home is a sink, remove the aerator before you start to flush your system.
Inspect Water Softeners and Whole-Home Filters
Whole-home water filters and softeners are important for protecting your plumbing system, appliances, and improving water quality. But they can also become a source of pressure loss if they’re clogged or not working like they should.
Whole-Home Filtration Systems
If your home uses a whole-home water filtration system, check the sediment filters near the main shutoff or pressure tank. These filters can become clogged with rust, sand, or other particles over time. If you haven’t replaced the filter cartridge recently, take a look at how much has built up and replace it if needed.
Water Softeners
If you have a water softener, put it in bypass mode or temporarily bypass the softener (there’s usually a valve for this right on the unit) and check your pressure again. If you notice an immediate improvement in the water pressure, the softener may be restricted due to salt bridging, resin fouling, or a stuck valve.
Also, make sure your softener isn’t stuck in the regeneration cycle, where the water coming into your home is bypassed and not being softened like it should be.
It’s not unusual for older homes to have multiple fixtures impacted by gradual buildup. If you find this problem in several places, it could point to corrosion or debris within the larger plumbing system, which we’ll get into next.
Check for Flow Restrictions in Your Plumbing System
If you’ve ruled out the common issues above and pressure is still low throughout your house, it may be time to take a closer look at your plumbing system itself. Over time, pipes and valves can develop issues that limit water flow, even if your pump, tank, or city supply is working as it should.
Old Galvanized Pipes Can Restrict Water Flow
If your home was built before the 1970s and hasn’t had any plumbing updates, there’s a good chance it still uses galvanized steel piping. These pipes corrode from the inside out, causing the interior diameter to get smaller over time.
This internal buildup doesn’t just reduce PSI, it can slow the water output down to a trickle, especially when more than one fixture is being used. That’s why they’re no longer used.
Replacing your entire system or any sections of galvanized pipe still left over with copper or PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) pipe can make a big difference in water pressure and flow.
Check That All Valves Are Fully Open
During renovations, repairs, or after just moving into a home, it’s possible that a shut-off valve was left partially closed either by accident or because it was difficult to turn.
If you’re on city water, start by checking to make sure your main shut-off valve at the street is all the way open. The image below shows what a main shut-off valve looks like fully open. Notice how the two holes that hold a locking pin aren’t lined up.
If you’re not sure if your valve is all the way open, you can use a water meter key to turn the valve to the left. Just make sure you don’t overdo it. You can also have your local water utility company come out and check that it’s fully open.
For both well systems and city water, you should also check the valve where your main line enters your house, as well as any branch valves that control water flow to different parts of your house.
A partially closed valve can restrict flow just enough to create a noticeable decrease in water pressure at any fixtures downstream of the valve.
Always Inspect Any Gate Valves You See
If your home has older gate-style valves, they may not be opening completely. Even if you can easily turn the handle.
The internal mechanism in these valves are well-known to fail with age, giving you the feeling that the valve is fully open when it’s really not. They can also corrode quickly and are prone to leaking.
If your gate valve feels gritty when you turn it or you can keep turning it without it stopping, replace it with a modern ball valve. Ball valves are more durable, less likely to fail, and much easier to turn on and off when you need to shut off water quickly.
Consider the Layout of Your Plumbing and Check for Bottlenecks from Poor Pipe Sizing
The physical route your water lines take to each fixture can also have an effect on the pressure provided to each one.
Long runs of pipe with a lot of tight turns with elbows can cause resistance in your system, especially if they’re working against gravity to reach a second or third story.
This is especially true if your system follows a “home-run” design, where each fixture gets its own dedicated line from a central manifold, rather than a “trunk and branch” layout where the main trunk line runs from one side of your house to the other with individual lines branching off at the location of each fixture.
If you’re noticing uneven pressure between rooms or floors, this may be part of the problem, and it’s something to keep in mind if you plan to renovate a bathroom or add an addition to your home later on.
In some cases, there might be sections of a “trunk and branch” plumbing system that are undersized and causing your low-pressure issue. If water is flowing through ½” lines when it should be flowing through ¾” or larger, you’ll end up with friction losses and lower PSI at the end fixtures.
This is especially important in larger homes or those with high-demand appliances like tankless water heaters or laundry setups that need consistent pressure.
If you’re not sure what size pipe is running where, or how much demand your system is actually calling for, the table below can give you a general idea of what’s typical for different pipe sizes, how many fixtures each size can reasonably support, and where each size works best in a home’s plumbing layout.
Use this as a starting point to compare your current setup and see if there might be a bottleneck causing your pressure issues.
Recommended Water Pipe Sizes Based on Fixture Demand and Layout
| Pipe Size | Recommended Use | Max Fixture Units* | Typical Layout | Notes |
| 1/2" | Individual fixtures (sink, toilet) | 2 to 4 | Home-run or short branch | Fine for short single runs but loses pressure over distance |
| 3/4" | Main branches feeding multiple fixtures | 4 to 8 | Trunk and branch | Minimum size for reliable-multi-fixture supply |
| 1" | Main supply line to house or heavy-use areas | 9 to 15+ | Trunk Line | Best for larger homes or high-demand setups |
| 1 1/4" + | Long runs, multi-story homes, or systems with booster pumps | 15+ | Trunk Line | Used in large homes or very complex plumbing systems |
*Fixture Units: This is a standard measurement used in plumbing design to estimate water demand. A sink = 1 unit, a shower = 2 units, a bathtub = 3 units, etc.
If you can’t see most of your plumbing lines or just don’t want to get dirty trying to find them all, call a plumbing company to come out and do the pipe sizing for you.
How to Raise the Water Pressure in Your House
Once you’ve ruled out clogs, valve issues, and undersized pipes, it’s time to talk about how to actually raise the pressure.
So how do you increase the water pressure in your home?
Well, there are a few things you could try, but it all depends on where your water’s coming from (city or well). Since each system requires a different approach, we’ll break them down individually. Let’s start with city water.
How to Increase Water Pressure in a House That Uses City Water
Most homeowners on city water expect a pretty consistent experience with water pressure. But just because you’re connected to a municipal supply doesn’t mean you’re automatically going to get strong, steady pressure.
If your incoming pressure is below 40 PSI, call your local water utility. Ask them to check the pressure at the street, and let them know what you’re seeing at your house. Sometimes, there’s a known issue, a stuck valve, or a main line that’s failed but hasn’t been reported yet.
If they confirm pressure at the street is fine, and you’re still getting a low reading in your home, then you know the restriction is on your side of the meter.
Here are some ways to increase your water pressure when using city-supplied water.
Adjusting Your Water Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) for City Water
Most homes on city water have a PRV installed where the main line enters the house, close to the main shut-off valve. It’s a bell-shaped device with a bolt (or screw) and a locknut on top. That bolt controls the internal spring, which is what sets your home’s water pressure.
You can try adjusting it to get more water pressure to your fixtures. Here are the steps to do that:
Step 1: Find Your PRV and Inspect it
Before touching anything, check the valve itself. If you see that it’s corroded or leaking water, don’t try to adjust it. Doing so can make the valve fail completely. Instead, call a plumber and have it replaced. A bad PRV won’t respond to adjustments anyway. If everything looks good, move on to the next step.
Step 2: Make Sure No Water is Running in Your House
Turn off all faucets, showers, washing machines—anything inside your home that could affect what reading you get.
Step 3: Attach a Pressure Gauge to an Outdoor Spigot
Look for a spigot that’s connected to your plumbing system after the pressure reducing valve.
If you’re not sure which direction the water flows through the PRV, check the body of the valve. You should see an arrow showing which direction the water flows. That’ll help you figure out which fixtures are upstream (before the PRV) and which are downstream (after it).
In some homes, the hose bib near the front of the house is tapped before the PRV. That spigot will show a higher PSI reading than others around your house because it’s getting unregulated water pressure.
This setup is often intentional, as it provides stronger pressure for things like washing your car or running outdoor equipment, so just make sure you’re testing from a spigot that’s downstream of the PRV.
Step 4: Fully Open the Spigot
This will be your baseline PSI reading and the number you’ll work off of when making your adjustments. Once you have your pressure reading, you can move back to your PRV. Leave your gauge attached to the spigot and leave the valve open so you can come back and check your adjustments.
Step 5: Adjust the Pressure Reducing Valve
To adjust the PRV, you’ll be tightening the bolt on top to allow more water to flow through.
- Start by loosening the locknut between the bolt and the valve until a few threads of the bolt are visible. This gives you room to make your adjustment.
- To increase the water pressure, turn the adjusting bolt clockwise.
- Start with small adjustments. A good rule of thumb is to turn it about a quarter-turn at a time. This should increase the pressure by a couple of PSI with each quarter turn you make.
Step 6: Test Your PSI After Each Adjustment
Go back to your spigot and see what the pressure is after each adjustment you make. You’re looking for something between 50 and 70 PSI. Never go above 75 PSI, or you’ll risk stressing your plumbing system and appliances.
If you’ve made your adjustments, but you’re not seeing the pressure increase at all, you probably need to have a new pressure reducing valve installed.
Step 7: Check Your Fixtures Around Your House
Now that you have the water pressure set at your desired level, go around your house and run water at a few different fixtures (upstairs, downstairs, kitchen, bath, etc.).
The pressure should feel stronger and be more consistent. If only certain areas improved, the issue may be in the plumbing for those specific fixtures (more on this later).
How to Improve Water Pressure in a House with a Well System
If your home runs on well water, boosting water pressure is a little different than it is with city water—but just as doable
Once you’ve confirmed that your well pump and pressure tank are working the way they should and your system is cycling properly, you’ve got a few ways to improve the pressure at your fixtures.
One of the most effective options is adjusting your pressure switch settings to increase the range your system operates within.
But first, you need to make sure your well pump can handle the increased pressure. Here are two ways you can find out:
- Look for a data plate or sticker on the pump, control box, or pressure tank. It should list a “maximum head” (measured in feet), which can be converted to PSI by dividing the footage by 2.31. For example, a pump with a 100-foot maximum head can deliver a max of about 43 PSI to your fixtures (100 / 2.31 = 43.29).
- If you know your pump’s model number, you can look up the spec sheet online or contact the manufacturer directly.
Never exceed the maximum pressure your well pump is rated for. If you increase your pump’s cut-out at 60 PSI, but it’s only rated to produce 50 PSI at your system’s height and distance, it’ll just continuously run without ever reaching the cut-off point, which will lead to your well pump failing.
How to Adjust a Pressure Switch for Well Systems
Once you’ve confirmed your pump can handle more pressure, you can now look at adjusting your pressure switch to add more water pressure to your system. Here’s how to do that safely and correctly:
Step 1: Find Your Pressure Switch
The pressure switch is the small gray or beige plastic box located near your pressure gauge and pressure tank. You should see a metal nut on top that secures the plastic cover over the internal components of the switch.
Step 2: Determine the Current Pressure Range of Your Pressure Switch
- Turn the power off to your well system at the breaker.
- Once the power is off, loosen the nut on top of the gray box and pull it off.
- Inside the cover, you’ll see the label showing the factory preset settings. This will show you the default cut-in and cut-out pressures, which are typically 30/50, 40/60, or 50/70.
- You can confirm this by turning the power back on, running water in your home, and watching the gauge. Once the pressure drops to the cut-in pressure, the pump should kick on and bring the pressure back up to the cut-out pressure that’s set. This confirms the current range before you make adjustments.
This gives you a clear baseline before you start making any changes.
Step 3: Prepare the Pressure Tank
- Turn off the power to your system and make sure all your fixtures are turned off and there’s no water running in your home.
- Locate the pressure tank and drain it using the drain valve on the bottom. Wait until it has completely drained all the water out of the tank. Once the tank is drained, you need to check the air charge. To do this:
- Remove the cap from the air valve on top of your pressure tank.
- Connect an air pressure gauge to the valve (any standard dial or digital gauge will work) and see what the pressure is currently set at.
- The tank should always be set to 2 PSI below your cut-in pressure.
Since you’ll be increasing your cut-in pressure, you’ll need to increase the air pressure in the tank as well.
For example, if you’re increasing your range from 30/50 to 40/60, you’ll need to make sure the air charge in your tank is set at 38 PSI (2 PSI below the cut-in pressure of 40 PSI) before making any adjustments to your pressure switch. You can add air using an air pump or air compressor.
If you’ve never done this before and you’re a more visual learner, here’s a quick video that walks you through how to check and adjust it.
With your pressure tank set to 2 PSI below the cut-out pressure, you can now start making adjustments to the actual water pressure through your pressure switch.
Step 4: Adjust the Pressure Switch
With the cover removed and power off, locate the middle set screw. This is what you’ll use to increase your pressure range.
Using a nut driver or adjustable wrench, tighten the center screw slowly in a clockwise direction. A full turn typically increases the pressure range by about 2 to 3 PSI. So if your pressure switch is set up for 30/50, and you want to increase it to 40/60, you’ll turn the screw three full rotations. This will add around 10 PSI to both the cut-in and cut-out pressures.
Note: Leave the smaller screw alone unless necessary. It adjusts only the cut-off pressure, not the full range. Changing it without a specific reason can throw off your system’s balance.
Step 5: Test Your System
Restore power to your pump and run water long enough to get the water pressure down to the cut-in pressure you set. Watch the pressure gauge to confirm that the pump kicks on and off at your new pressure settings.
Tip: If your system seems to be cycling more often after making adjustments or you notice inconsistent pressure, you might have a worn bladder in the pressure tank, or your pump might be undersized.
Other Ways to Increase Water Pressure in a House That Uses Well Water
1. Consider Upgrading Your Pressure Tank
If your well system has a small or undersized pressure tank, you’re probably dealing with inconsistent water pressure, especially during heavy use. That’s because a smaller tank holds less water between pump cycles, causing the pump to turn on and off more frequently.
Upgrading to a larger tank can help stabilize your water pressure and extend the life of your pump. Here’s how:
- Fewer pump cycles – Reduces starts and stops, minimizing wear and extending pump life
- More consistent water pressure – Stores more water between cycles, keeping PSI steadier during high demand
- Better efficiency – A properly sized tank helps your system run more smoothly and reliably over time
If your current tank is smaller than 20 gallons, and your home has multiple bathrooms, high-demand appliances (like a tankless water heater), or uses an irrigation system, upgrading to a 40 or 60-gallon tank can significantly improve water pressure and overall performance.
Just keep in mind that the tank size should match how much water your pump can deliver, the pressure settings you’re using, and how long the pump is supposed to run during each cycle. Installing one that’s too big can actually make your system less efficient.
If you’re not sure what size you need, it’s a good idea to have a plumber take a look and recommend the right fit for your setup.
2. Clean or Replace Any Post-Tank Sediment Filters
A lot of well systems include sediment filters between the pressure tank and your home’s plumbing system. These filters are great for catching sand, silt, and other grit from your water source—but they can also clog up fast and quietly choke off your pressure.
Check if you’ve got a filter housing installed after the tank. If it hasn’t been cleaned or changed in a while, start there:
- Turn off your pump and relieve pressure before removing the filter.
- Inspect the cartridge. If it’s dark, slimy, or crusted over, replace it.
- Run water after reinstalling to see if the pressure improves.
You can also temporarily bypass the filter (if your setup allows) to see if the pressure gets better. If it does, you’ve likely found a major contributor to your low PSI.
3. Upgrade to a Two-Wire or Variable-Speed Pump
If your well is deep or your current pump struggles to keep up, upgrading to a variable-speed pump might be the better long-term solution you need.
These pumps automatically adjust their speed based on how much water you’re using. Instead of waiting for the pressure to drop before they kick on, they keep pressure steady and responsive.
Variable-speed pumps are quieter, more energy efficient and reduce wear on your plumbing system by avoiding those sudden pressure spikes.
Upgrade Your Household Plumbing
If your pressure gauge shows you have good water pressure at an outdoor spigot, but you’re still getting inconsistent pressure at your fixtures, especially when more than one is running at the same time, you might have a pipe sizing issue or an inefficient plumbing layout.
This is actually pretty common in older homes. Over the years, someone might’ve updated parts of the plumbing system with newer materials but left the original pipe sizes in place.
Or they replaced only certain sections without looking at how everything works together. So, even though some of your plumbing might be “new,” it may not be doing the job as well as it could.
The design of your system itself also plays a big role. Older plumbing layouts weren’t built for the kind of water demand modern homes have, like multiple showers or appliances running at the same time.
Things like long pipe runs, sharp turns, elevation changes, or unnecessary valves can all create resistance in the system and reduce water flow.
For example, if a long run of ½-inch pipe is supplying multiple fixtures or serving an entire bathroom, there will be limitations on how much water gets through, even if your incoming water pressure is within a normal PSI range.
Calculating the size of your water lines in certain areas of your home can tell you where you’re losing pressure. And in many cases, you don’t need to replace your entire plumbing system. You just need to improve how the existing one is set up.
Using that same example, you might see a big improvement by upgrading the main trunk line or by reconnecting fixtures directly to the trunk line instead of running them off a smaller shared line.
In other cases, it could be as simple as running a dedicated line to a single fixture that’s struggling.
This is one of those situations where having a professional plumber evaluate your system can be worth the call. They can measure your actual water flow rates, look for spots where pressure is being lost, and help you decide whether you need a layout change, a full upgrade to your entire system, or just need a section of it replaced.
When to Boost Your System with a Pressure Booster Pump
Sometimes, the problem isn’t inside your home—it’s your main water source. When water has to work too hard to get where it’s going, you end up with weak showers, slow faucets, or pressure drops whenever more than one fixture is running.
And while it might feel like there’s not much you can do about low pressure from the street or your well, that’s not entirely true. Your plumbing just needs a little help, and a booster pump could be the upgrade it needs.
What is a Water Pressure Booster Pump and How Does it Work?
A booster pump is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a device that helps increase the water pressure and flow rate to your fixtures by creating additional force in your plumbing system. It uses an electric motor and a set of impellers (rotating blades) to push water through your pipes more powerfully.
It doesn’t create more water. It simply just moves it more efficiently, giving your plumbing system a controlled, reliable push when your water supply isn’t strong enough on its own.
That extra pressure helps water reach distant fixtures, climb to upper floors, and stay consistent even when multiple appliances are running at the same time.
Think of it like this: When you run a garden hose without a nozzle, the water just flows out. But attach a spray nozzle, and the water shoots farther and hits harder. A booster pump works the same way—it applies extra pressure to help water move farther and perform better at the tap.
It’s typically installed right after the main water line enters your home and can be used with both city water and well systems.
They can be especially helpful in situations where your home consistently receives lower PSI from the source. For example, they work really well if:
Your home sits at a higher elevation or on a hill
You’re located at the end of a city water line or far from the main supply
You have a long service line between the street and the house
Your plumbing system is large, with multiple floors or bathrooms
Pressure drops significantly when two or more fixtures run at once
Single-Stage vs. Multi-Stage Booster Pumps
Booster pumps come in two main types:
- Single-Stage Pumps: These pumps use a single impeller to move water and are good for smaller homes or in plumbing setups where you just need a moderate bump in pressure. They’re simpler, less expensive, and easier to maintain.
- Multi-Stage Pumps: These use multiple impellers to generate higher pressure and are designed for homes with long pipe runs, vertical lift (multi-level homes), or higher water demand. They’re more powerful, more efficient under heavy load, and better suited for larger or more complex systems.
Some booster pumps also include a built-in pressure tank, which helps regulate and maintain a steady PSI throughout the day. This not only improves performance at your fixtures but also reduces wear on your appliances by minimizing pressure fluctuations.
Before You Install One
If you’re on city water, check with your local water utility before installing a booster pump. Some municipalities have limits on how much pressure they deliver, and in some areas, you may need a permit or a backflow prevention device to meet local plumbing codes.
And while DIY booster pump kits do exist, installation is often best left to a licensed plumber. They’ll make sure the pump is properly sized for your system, correctly installed, and calibrated to deliver the right PSI for your home.
A booster pump isn’t a fix to flow problems caused by clogs or undersized piping, but when everything is working as it should, and you still need more pressure, it’s one of the most effective solutions.
When to Call a Professional Plumber
There’s a lot you can do on your own when it comes to diagnosing and fixing water pressure issues, but there’s also a point where calling in a professional plumber makes the most sense.
Especially if you’ve already gone through the basic checks and you’re still not seeing any improvements.
Here are a few signs it’s time to get help:
- You’ve tested your PSI, and it’s within range, but the pressure is still low throughout the house.
- You’ve adjusted your PRV valve or well pressure switch, and nothing has improved.
- While going through your plumbing system, you’ve noticed small leaks, corroded pipes, or where you need to get is tight or hard to reach.
- Your system has a complex layout, and you’re not sure where the pressure drop is happening.
- You’re planning to upgrade part of your plumbing and need to make sure it’s up to code.
A licensed plumber can run more advanced tests to check water flow rates, inspect your pressure regulator, look for hidden restrictions or pipe sizing issues, and even check your appliances for performance problems you may have missed.
They’ll also have the tools to handle repairs that require cutting, soldering, or repiping—things that go beyond the scope of a weekend project.
But hiring a pro doesn’t mean handing over a blank check. Here are a few tips to protect yourself and your budget:
- Get multiple quotes. If the job involves more than a simple repair, it’s worth getting a second opinion—especially if the first one recommends a full system replacement.
- Ask questions. A good plumber should be able to explain what they’re doing and why. If they avoid answering your questions or can’t walk you through what they’re planning to do, look for another plumber.
- Know what permits are required. Depending on where you live, work like installing a pressure booster pump or replacing your main line may require a permit. A licensed plumber will know what’s allowed and will be able to handle all the paperwork.
- Don’t be upsold into unnecessary work. If you’re told that your only option is a total repipe of your entire house, ask for a breakdown. In many cases, targeted upgrades can solve the problem for much less.
Sometimes, calling a plumber is the fastest, most cost-effective way to fix your water pressure problems—especially if you’re working with an older system, a complex layout, or a pressure issue that just won’t go away.
Most of the time, the cause of low water pressure in your home is something you can find and fix with a little extra knowledge and the right approach.
Whether that means cleaning out a clogged fixture, adjusting a pressure valve, or making improvements to part of your plumbing system, you should now be able to pinpoint the problem area, know how to increase water pressure in your home, and take steps to get your water pressure where it needs to be.
Start by testing your pressure, rule out the basics, and then work your way up from there.
If the problem turns out to be something more involved, like old piping, a layout that no longer makes sense for your home, or pressure that’s just too low at the source, there are still effective ways to fix it, from targeted upgrades to adding a pressure booster pump when needed.
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